9/24: Beaumaris & Caernarfon Castles, Beddgelert, Snowdonia National Park & Conwy

Since we’d spent far more time than anticipated at the interesting Beaumaris Gaol or jail after taking the ferry over from Dublin to the northern coast of Wales, we didn’t have time to do justice to the Beaumaris Castle. 

The castle was started in 1295 as the last link in King Edward I’s ‘Iron Chain’ of castles to enclose the rebellious former kingdom in North Wales. Though it was designed with four areas of defense, a moat and a fortified dock, the castle was never finished because problems in Scotland changed the king’s priorities. 

Views of Isle of Anglesey across from Menai Strait toward the town of Bangor:

Considered one of the engineering marvels of the period, the Menai Suspension Bridge connected the Isle of Anglesey to the mainland in 1826. At 580 feet, it was the longest bridge of its day and was built high enough to allow Royal Navy ships to sail beneath. Before the bridge was built, Anglesey’s cattle had to literally swim across the Menai Strait to get to market. The bridge reduced travel time from London to Holyhead, Wales from 36 hours to 27.

Bangor:

The small 19th century town of Caernarfon was famous for its striking castle as it is where the Prince of Wales is ‘invested’ or given his title. At one time, this was a booming slate port when it shipped slate from northern Wales mining towns to cover roofs all over Europe.

During the 19th century, the town was most famous for the large square in front of the castle, now known as Castle Square and just a parking lot!

A statue of native son Lloyd George looked over the square. George ultimately became Britain’s Prime Minister during the last year of WW I after beginning his political career promoting Welsh rights.

As with the castle in Beaumaris, Caernarfon Castle was built 700 years ago to establish British rule over North Wales by King Edward I. As he and his family stayed there on their visits to Wales, the castle also resembled more of a palace than simply being defensive. But again, it was never finished and rarely used. 

The castle gained its fame because it was where King Edward was able to persuade the disgruntled Welsh to agree that they would submit to the Crown if he presented them with “a prince, born in Wales who spoke not a word of English.” The ‘tradition’ actually only started in the last century when two of 21 Princes of Wales, the current Prince Charles and King Edward VIII, were invested at the castle.

As we walked around the outside of the castle, we saw the attractive sail boats moored to the dock.

The pedestrian-only Aber Swing Bridge was constructed in 1974.

More views of the castle as we continued to walk around it:

Some shops in the charming town of Caernarfon:

We continued driving toward Snowdonia National Park, Britain’s second largest national park.

What spectacular views along the lake and sun-dappled hills.

One of the cutest towns we’re ever likely to see was Beddgelert because of its charming cluster of stone homes next to a babbling brook! If one believed in hobbits, that was the town to visit. As the town closest to the national park, it attracted a good share of walkers to the park “wanting to experience the peace of Snowdonia” as Rick Steves, the travel writer, eloquently expressed it. We didn’t have time to peruse more than a few shops and admire the town but vowed to return the following day to the enchanting town.

We continued our ascent in the mountains of Snowdonia National Park toward the summit. Even though the weather was obviously less than ideal, Steven and I both still found the views riveting.

Unfortunately, we didn't have much of a view of Mt. Snowdon through the clouds at the summit. I read that each year more than half a million people climb one of seven different paths to the summit of the 3,500-ft. mountain.

A waterfall at the summit:

If we ever return to this part of Wales, it would be fun to traipse along some of the walking trails that meander through the hills.

As we continued the drive over Pen-y-Pass, we came across lots more sheep.

Evidently, aeronautical exercises were taking place because of the constant thunderous noise of jets overhead but we couldn’t see them through the dense clouds atop Pen-y Pass. 

Piles of what we thought must be slate covered the sides of the mountain.

We stopped to get a better view of the town of Llanberis and of its Padarn Lake. It was the result of millions of years of earth movement and volcanic eruptions as over two million years ago, the Ice Age began to form the lake visible now. The Arctic Char, a rare fish that survived from that period gave the lake its designation as a Site of Scientific Interest.

The town of Llanberis bordered Snowdonia National Park and was designated in 1951 with over 26,000 inhabitants and 823 square miles of magnificent scenery. Tourism provided the main employment for the area. Also critical to the region's economy were the Welsh Mountain Sheep.

Our destination that night and the next was Conwy.

Our B&B in Conwy was adjacent to the town's castle. After checking in and relaxing for a bit after the long day since leaving Dublin that morning, we headed out for a stroll through the town and to find a place for dinner.

Next post: Exploring the area around Conwy: the National Slate Museum, walking along the River Conwy outside of Beddgelert, and the towns of Blaenau Ffestiniog and Betws-y-Coed.

Posted on March 20th, 2020, unexpectedly from home in Denver after we cut our four month trip to Asia very short because of the advancing coronavirus made further travel too hazardous.